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London Fashion Week A/W 2010 - Day Two

Words: Deborah Latouche and Jennifer McNulty Kinder Aggugini was my  first show of the day, considering this is only his second season at London fashion week he really does have all the journalists cooing that he is the “One to watch”. I have a preoccupation with regards to whether clothes are made well and Kinder definitely has a top production company behind him, I guess I should not be surprised; as he has worked for masters such as – Galliano, Westwood and Versace.

His collection comprised of Napoleonic references in the form of rigid military 19th century coats and uniforms mixed with super soft printed silk dresses.

Photos: Deborah Latouche

The dark occult themes continue for A/W 2010 with Maria Francesca Pepe’s fashion presentation. Reminscent of 1990’s Gucci, Pepe showed a predominantly black collection with structured navel slashed blazers, chainlink trousers, gold plated tribal jewellery, crucifix collars and wolf biker-style motifs adorning belts and printed onto the back of jackets. Interestingly, the same leather thigh high leg warmers, first seen at the Paul Costelloe show were also present here. Weirdly, all the models had literally the same face, had they not been close enough to touch, I would have suspected some computer trickery. Perhaps it was just witchcraft coming into play.

photos: Tilly Pearman

At Fashion East the one designer that stood out to me was not on the catwalk, the architectural footwear of Chau Har Lee was displayed in the arches as we walked in to the show.

This recent graduate from the Royal College of Art has already been approached by a number companies to design their footwear ranges and You can see why, using wood steel and acrylic her unique take on shoes is truly original.

Photos: Deborah Latouche

Description of the season so far, comes courtesy of Bryce Aime who declared, ‘mummification is the new black.’ With a collection entitled ‘Egyptology’, I was half expecting white bandages and severe black bob haircuts to walk down the catwalk. Thankfully Aime steered clear of clichés and instead interpreted Ancient Egypt by channelling ceremonial priestesses with purple digital printed catsuits under wine red and black structured, curved hem jackets and dresses. Mythology and fantasy is establishing itself as a clear trend for Autumn / Winter 2010.

Photo: Tilly Pearman

Although all of the collections we see this week would have been complete before the untimely death of Alexander McQueen, in a fitting tribute, his influence this season was everywhere. From Bryce Aime’s digital prints to Iris van Herpen's twisted butterfly dresses and statement shoes. Kicking off her show with strobe lighting, Iris van Herpen presented a stunning, dramatic collection of metallic gold, nude and black leather strips, twisted and knotted to beautifully create armour-esque dresses. The high level of workmanship was extremely impressive and the execution of the show had enough drama to fully showcase these designs.

Photos: Simon Ackerman

Mark Fast and Mary Katranzou showed back to back in the Top shop venue.

Mark Fast continued to show a few oversized models, a decision which had all the papers talking last season. In my opinion it worked well with some of the girls but not all, you still have to be able to walk well with you head held high. But it is great to see someone paying attention to the fact that ‘real’ women are not a size zero. Fast considers knitting an art form and as such pays immaculate attention to details and creates some intricate figure hugging pieces.  His collection was predominantly bronzes and silvers, colours that came from his inspiration, the work of Romanian sculptor Demetre Chiparus.

Photos: Jimmy James

Mary Katranzou’s collection was based on 18th century portraiture, there were quite a few new elements added to this collection, an introduction of outer wear and not just digital print as the key embellishment but also swarovski crystals, lace and organza ruffles. Katranzou also continued to make elaborate metal stand out jewellery that completely enhanced the collection.

Photos: Jimmy James