Earthy is the new black.Runway DJs are en vogue. We will freeze in shorts and minis.
Fashion crowd has been around last week attending runways, tradeshows, presentations and parties. Traditionally here goes what I have been up to.
I started the round at Bread & Butter opening party on Tuesday night. Around 2500 international guests attended the venue in the Original Sin Saloon built in the heart of the tradeshow at Flughafen Tempelhof. A mix between Wild West and Bavarian Biergarten, the party was a blast! Detailed decoration, good food and a fine show program. While sharing a huge Burger with Linda a sexy blonde performed as a rope acrobat on top of our heads. Afterwards we took to the floor with German Country Band The BossHoss. Check out how cool they are pretending redneck accent, fun fun fun.
We left a bit too late so during the first show at Bebelplatz tent on Wednesday I felt the musics volume slightly to high.
After lifting the garage gate a huge chandelier appeared on the head of Schumacher presentation, the kick-off show of Mercedes Benz Fashionweek Berlin on Wednesday morning. The rather classy brand showed a lady silhouette of slim legs and short skirts. Velvet, glitter, wool and fur in black, ranges of brown, dark blue and green. Lovely the knee high woollen socks with big glass stone applications.
Lena Hoschek showed a mix of garçon and lady with a clear 30ies and 40ies influence. Paperboy meets sexy dress, Folklore meets Uniform. Beautiful checks, uni and gypsy inspired fabrics, big flowery scarves, suspenders, cravats and brownish stockings to complete the look. I didn´t like the complete casting but Ex Germanys Next Topmodel redhead managed her heel loose with a great attitude seeming to be part of the show. Lena Hoscheks style is vintage and each season comes with a strong and peculiar line of ideas and inspirations, well done!
This was the debut of Kilian Kerners second, more commercial, line. The cloth as well as their presentation definitely wear the designers signature, the concept is a bit younger though. Konfetti runway and a DJ instead of the life band usual at his own line. He showed streety looks and college style in nice colour combos and patent leather Dr. Martens, not exactly the latest news but consistent. Happy to see a casting including a wide variety of nations.
During these days it might happen that events overlap. Until the very last minute I had not decided if I would attend the Panel about FASHION BLOGS – HYPE OR FUTURE? held by Mary Scherpe from Stil In Berlin and Pudri at Premium Exhibitions or the Penkov show. This video has been shown during the pannel:
Penkov showed one of the most solid and beautiful proposals for autumn/winter 10/11. Safari police meets secret agent with dancehall tunes. Serious Jackets, coats, pants and dresses in grey, beige, khaki and black. In between gold buttons and leather belts, some draped and floating volumes and lovely corsage bustiers. Hair styled straight back or with scarfs and inspector hats. Satisfying eye candy!
Between these shows I wanted to attend to Helle Mardahl´s vernissage of “Stage Power” at Circle Culture Gallery, unfortunately I couldn’t due to work. Happily the exhibition is ongoing until March 6th. I am looking forward to visit it, it’s been almost two years now without viewing her work in Berlin and I am a big fan of her sculptures that locate between apparel and couture with quite a portion of abstractness and fun.
The Italian designer creates an elegant style, mainly in black and white mixed with some turquoise and pink. Very slim leather legs and strong accents on shoulders are not exactly a discovery but do look great. One of the topics was plissé skirts and dresses with a very personal note. Skilled manufacture and finalization of the pieces plus a fine material selection underline their dressiness; the excessive use of fur is questionable.
Following his invite to “Pro Forma” to offsite location WMF I found boys and girls standing in white corners. Models and observers did change positions in constant time lags, and therewith point of view. A temporary installation of multiple steps. The fashion was intentional crude and (kind of) deconstructed. Big drapes and bulges mostly in the front part create different forms or as the designer himself defines his 7th collection ... The design of the pieces is neither functional nor decorative. Structures disregard body shape and avoid definition. They can be classiefied as antiforma. ...
Outside we found an amazing(ly big) paste up work and could not resist:
I was quite tired that day so I just popped for a while into the Patta & Pigalle & Firmament & Nike venue at Tausend Bar. The girls kept dancing until late.
Next day started with:
This duo just finished fashion studies and convinced with an effective collection. They work an individual, loose and neutral, silhouette. Ideas were unexpected asymmetries and exaggerated edges of outside seams on legs and arms. Materials as cotton and felt in beige, white, terracotta and rosé mixed with a shiny plastic in nude and brown for tight skirts. Clear cuts and the workmanship seemed excellently. Clutches in form of big envelopes and socks in heels. This is the profile of young designers I preferably want to see on Berlin runways, I will definitely keep an eye on them!
Mongrels in Common has been synonym for exceptional collections in their completeness, achievement of ideas and lovely, innovative details. I was surprised to receive their presentation a bit shaky at some points this time. They made use of a light blue and grey chequered fabric that didn’t work in all cases. The neutral lines for coats with romantic details were confusing. What did work out was Nanai leather, wool and silk in black, grey and apricot. The elaborated works on shoulders as pads of all varies and drapes on top are definitely demanding a closer look. As singles I loved the silk blouses in apricot, the black-20 den-dot-stockings and the straight back, wet look hair, tied up with a rigid ribbon.
Then I head for Bread & Butter at Flughafen Tempelhof where I met with FSMs Jason and Marco to visit some brands. As always the tradeshows staging and production was groundbreaking and precisely executed. Impressive the wall (400 m long, 12 m high and still looking good) built for protection against deep freezing temperatures. Unfortunately I missed the G-Star show! They are having interesting plans for next season: B&B Premiere League in fashion and football (transmission on the fields), come back of B&B Kids under a circus tent, B&B Boarding House will be a new platform for young Sport- and Streetwearlabels and Street Artists and the expansion of the L.O.C.K area (heritage, authenticity, high demand to product) in form of L.O.C.K store.
After passing through B&B´s magazine launch to collect some of my favourite publications I went to the former Hungarian Cultural Centre where in the frame of .HBC Couture Designer Scouts 9 brands showed their collections in 3 slots.
Starstyling initiated with a performance of Paris Suit Yourself. The following collection under the tilte of "Jessica Nussbaum" was a mix of show pieces and wearable cloth as always. Plastic on bodies and faces were giving an ill-favoured but interesting look. The “commercial” line was characterized by black, metalic coloured rectangled applications and hoodies.I especially loved the 90ies techno style gauntlets (they are so coming back!) and the grey crusty crepe.
Carni designs accessories made of leather, silver, acrylic and silk ropes and had his launch. The brand launched with a collection of interlaced rhombus forms exploring parts of the human body to adorn apart the traditional ones.
After that we rushed to the tent, unfortunately therewith we missed the presentation of Julia & Ben, emerging designers of Berlin.
Are We Shaved? The designers ongoing topics as simplicity, unification of sex, triangles and art-in-fashion have been well articulated in this collection. About five looks reappearing in five different colours, the primaries, black and white. To the tunes of DJ Hell over-tanned bodybuilder-muscle-masses showed structures of wood and fabric and artistic pieces of synthetic materials and with bodybuilder-show-wear underneath. Some of them were brought in on a trolley, almost as a product and after walking the rest collected on the end of the catwalk. In between pale and slim models showed his well-known and beloved line of Jeans and T-Shirts. Make Up was consistent with black painted eye-brows and triangles around the nose, painted hands and feet plus wigs, all in the correspondent colours; lump of sugar in the models mouth gave them a certain bunny look.
Back to .HBC we believed to be late for the second slot but luckily were not. The Don’t Shoot The Messenger duo usually works with the combination of calf leather and silk creating a fine line of cloth. Derivations of the original in Jersey and Denim create a wearable interpretation, mostly in black and nude.
A.D.Deertz is known for unagitated simple Urban Wear with basic fabrics of high quality standard. For a/w 10/11 Wibke Deertz decided to finally move from an unisex collection to an exclusive Men’s collection, which does not mean I won’t have a piece in my wardrobe in the future.
Vitor is a bi-national brand that exists since 2009. Their fashion is what I call conceptual fashion. On the base of creating “unisex wear for the ones who bring the identity of themselves” the picked topic is Macedonia and its search for identity. Characteristics like layering, fishnet wide and tight knitwear and leather and kind of house slippers with socks on top. The collection will be presented 3 times, each time its identity will vary by change of item order and information, becoming vital this way. Would love to see the other two shows and at least will look out for documentation about them.
I had heard quite a lot of the young designer Julie Eilenberger and was looking forward to see the extension of her Space collection. Super shoulder pads, string and entire body, black and white splash and translucence all beautifully combined with nude pumps.
ph: Andre Wagner
Von Bardonitz showed a mix of garcon, avant-garde, frills and slight military influence as medal applications and accessories. Outfits in beige and brown were all tone in tone. Blouses, capes and trousers, a skirt in between and did I see nude neoprene? Beautiful work.
ph: Andre Wagner
Somehow I missed the presentation of Martin Niklas Wieser and I have no clue how this could happen! I highly recommend the designers website and his new collection entitled WUT.
The Aftershow party by Comme Ci, Comme Ca invited with music from names like Sascha Funke, Un Homme Et Une Femme, and many more. Later I went to the party held by Vice and Adidas Originals to launch the Adidas Star Wars collection. The place was crowded but still very pleasant. I missed the Patrick Mohr Aftershow party at Bar Tausend.
Stay tuned, our deadline for print is looming but I promise to upload #2 of the report soon!