Sergio Zambon, who designed the men’s collection at Fendi for several years, showed his first personal Women’s Collection at the Galleria Visconti, with a stunning view out onto an amazing Milanese court garden.
What immediately caught my eye at the presentation before the show were the fun-shoes with their super realistic banana heel, a la Erwin Wurm, made ad hoc for the show. They didn’t really convince me but they added a sexy and fun touch to the collection.
Zambon’s Collection for Spring/Summer 2010 was inspired by the shapes of the 80’s, like those embodied by pop icon Grace Jones, with hyperbolic geometries and a super body-conscious silhouette with most of the dresses, jackets and tops all in a mini length, combined with the minimal colors of the early 90’s - optical white, black, a range of khakis and an amazingly beautiful “avion” blu. All this was nicely counter pointed by a certain masculine style transformed into feminine glam.
The most outstanding piece was the new cocktail dress by Zambon called “Swim-furreau” consisting of an integrated swimming costume and hand-sewn lycra piping placed up around the waist to create a bustier in a 3d effect - a well worked remix of haute couture with pop culture, using only the highest quality ‘made in Italy’ materials and applying it to the most innovative trends.
words and pictures: Martina Dabac