Everything happening Freestyle...

LFW Sunday 20th Sept

Mulberry The day started off at Claridges where the Mulberry show was held, fairground rides; The Virgin Suicides and Tim Walkers photography were the inspiration this season.

I decided to take my son to his first fashion show and had to continuously stop him from diving into the 100’s of balloons on the catwalk.

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Mulberry showed a truly divine collection, Emma Hill has taken the Iconic brand to a new level. Relaxed tailoring, giant pretty bows, neutrals mixed with purple leopard print and sun-bleached brights made for a fun and sophisticated collection, which was artfully put together by master stylist Edward Enninful.

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Jasper Conran

A veteran to London Fashion Week, Conran showed a collection that demonstrated his maturity and skill in knowing what stylish well-dressed women want. The understated collection was beautifully executed with a controlled colour palette of creamy whites, soft beiges and flashes of silver. Laser cut leather was masterfully cut into fluted dresses and layered delicate chiffon cleverly used to make wispy floaty clothing.

Dresses that wouldn't have been out of place on a Hollywood siren in a fifties movie were form-fitted, very feminine and suited the updated fifties hair & make-up. The accessories were kept to a minimum but interest was added with the bags that were made of corset boning and showed why Conran is still a master in restrained and classic glamour.

Written by Samson Soboye

Matthew Williamson

Gone is the boho chic of yester –year and in with the new tough Brit Chick. Williamson’s much anticipated return to London was represented by a new look of slick tailoring, high-waisted cigarette pants and Strong shoulder details - a somewhat futuristic collection.

The Colours were hot pink, purples, and silver with highlights of lime and teal. Crystal encrusted shoulders and paper bag skirts stole the show, and the angular tuxedo jackets worked well with feminine dresses. There was amazing attention to detail and the cut of the garments are a huge accomplishment.

This new streamline collection will no doubt be a hit with the new girls about town, such as his new muse Leigh Lezark; but I rather loved the hippie chick in him and hope it’s not gone forever.

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Eley Kishimoto

Much to my dismay I missed the Eley Kishimoto show! How could I miss the show of our Freestyling partners??

There was a mountain of traffic in London and a lot of roads had been blocked off for some sort of bike race and as a result even Suzi Menkes only caught a glimpse of the collection. I was hugely disappointed as they are definitely one of my favourites each season.

So the next day I made my way to their show room gave my sincere apologies and inspected their “Beyond the Chintz” collection with delight. Mark and Wakako are forever reinventing the boundaries of print and creating the most wonderful quirky, yet wearable pieces.  The pheasant feather print dress mixed with bold stripes is genius.

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While there I also had my eye on a flash print watch and the cutest ever flash converse for my 2-year-old son!  Think I might have to place an order, as I just can’t get them out of my head.

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Graeme Black The audience were reminded of Twenties India, at the height of Colonial rule, a place of clashing cultures, styles and British military wear, including jodhpurs, cropped fitted jackets and starched white silk, blending easily with the colours and jewels of the sub-continent.

The newly built venue on Savile Row was sparsely decorated beautifully perfumed with the aroma of woody incense sticks. The sound of peacocks singing filled the room and an evocative sound track provided by Doug Haywood set the tone for the collection. Colours were turquoise, lime, coral and berry sitting comfortably alongside khaki and white.

The look was relaxed luxe (white crocodile jacket), elegant and sophisticated without being stuffy, detailing simple with diamonds and gems provided by Moussaieff.

Black is a designer who exemplifies stealth wealth  - Britain's answer to Bottega Veneta with added glamour. He seems to be a well kept secret known exclusively by industry insiders as demonstrated by his turnout today– including almost the entire Vogue fashion team, Mrs Burstein of Browns, Harold Tillman and Yasmin le Bon.

Written by Samson Soboye

Julien Macdonald

This show was a very welcome surprise, Macdonald has finally come away from fru fru party dresses to reveal a modern, edgy collection of exciting 80’s inspired sculptural pieces, bold, large shoulders, PVC biker jackets and trench coats teamed with figure hugging dresses and all in ones. An incredibly successful collection Macdonald has certainly turned his brand around, we never expected him to be doing Glamorous sportswear.

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All the cool cats will be fighting to be the first seen in this new collection.

Vivienne Westwood Red label

The show was dedicated to the prince’s rainforest project and in particular the frog; there were even frog accessories.

This collection relied heavily upon her classics such as the button up shirt and the exquisite draping that Viv is known for. Mostly natural fibres were used, a lot of cotton and linens of various prints and colours mixed together in typical Westwood fashion.

This was a rather lady like ands sober collection.

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Words and images: Deborah Latouche

Conributor: Samson Soboye